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Fish chowder or sustainable winter necessity

Already this winter, I have prepared four rather large batches of sweet and creamy nutritious fish and prawn chowder. At this time highest quality halibut and prawns still wildly available make an ideal ingredient for the following variations of savory fish chowder.

Original Fish Chowder favorite
Prep: 30 min Cook: 1 hr 45 min
Serves 6
Ingredients:
2 1/2 lbs assorted premium wild seafood, boneless 1/2 inch cut
1 pint of heavy cream
1/2 c. of olive oil or unsalted butter
2 bay leaves
2 medium onions, small diced
4 large celery stalks, small diced with some leaves diced
6 medium boiling potatoes, red or gold will work
6-8 cups of water or fish stock
white pepper and sea salt to taste
2/3 c. of unbleached flour or minced pilot crackers

Mix:
1.Wash and dice the onion and celery. Add oil or butter to large 6 quart soup pot, set heat to medium and add diced celery and onion. Saute onion and celery until translucent, about 5-7 minutes. 2. Add 4 cups water or stock and bay leaves to pot. Increase the heat to high and reduce to low once the mixture begins to boil, careful not to over boil vegetables throughout cooking. Add 1 Tbs. of sea salt to flavor the mixture if using salt. 3. While pot increases to the boil point, peel potatoes. Slice peeled potatoes into 1/4 inch thick one quarter rounds. This size is wonderful for soups as it allows to potato to absorb the other flavors without becoming too soft to the bite. Add potato to heated stock and increase heat once more just to the simmer point. 4. Add chopped halibut and prawns once soup begins to simmer after the potato has been added. Reduce heat to low and cover. 5. In separate bowl combine flour or crackers with the pint of heavy cream and a pint of cool water or stock. If using flour, whisk this mixture to eliminate lumps. While whisking, add mixture to soup pot and stir frequently until soup thickens slightly. Add white pepper and any desired additional sea salt at this time. 6. Remove cover and continue to cook soup for 30 minutes before serving. If soup becomes too thick add water 1 cup at a time to desired consistency. It is important to allow soup to cool before storing under refrigeration.

Variation One: Fish Chowder
Ingredients and Mix-
Reduce celery to 2 stalks and 1 carrot, small diced
Substitute 3 large leeks for onions, small chopped
Substitute 1 large bunch collard greens for potato, thick spines removed and leaves rough cut to 1 inch or so.
Cook vegetables in soup until tender before adding halibut and prawns.
Reduce fish and prawns to 1 1/2 pounds for recipe variation with collards and leeks.
Use flour rather than crackers to thicken this soup as it will lend to a silkier consistency that will contrast the leafy collard bits well rather then compete for a similar texture.

Variation Two: Fish Chowder with corn and chillies
Using original chowder recipe, make the following adjustments.
Add 2-3 dried red chili peppers to onion and celery saute.
Add 1 cup of corn kernels to soup while adding the potatoes.

Bricks of Gold

Otolith's hot smoked king salmon portions are a one of a kind savory and nutritious delicacy. The average weight of each Brick of Gold is 1 1/4 lbs, perfect for a party. Once thawed a Brick of Gold may be enjoyed for up to 12 days while stored properly under refrigeration.

So far this December, I served 1/2 of our Brick of Gold as an appetizer at a small farewell diner for my father-in-law departing for Turkey, and I served the other 1/2 to my daughter and niece with their friends at my niece's annual Christmas Party the next evening. The Brick of Gold was served casually sliced alongside table water crackers and fresh grapes. For my family, Brick of Gold and Squaw Candy provide necessary moments of peace and healthful reward without creating more work. Otolith's hot smoked salmon can create a peaceful and healthful moment in your busy and wonderful life too.
Otolith's 2011 smoked salmon is hot smoked in the fall just after the close of fisheries. It is best enjoyed throughout the winter and spring to assure its highest quality. Quantities are limited.

CSS 2011 King Crab!!


Otolith has CSS 2011 King Crab Program shares available for a limited time offer.

This CSS is OPEN for two weeks only!

Fall Harvest 2011 King Crab is now available through our unique and seasonal CSS created for the experience of enjoying an assortment of 2 species of Alaskan King Crab, Red and Blue.

Contents: [Weights indicate size and weight of half crab cleaned cluster]

3 lbs [1 cluster] #1 Red King Crab - best in the world
2 lbs [1 cluster] #2 Red King Crab - smaller but just as tasty
1.5 lbs [1 cluster] #1 Blue King Crab – limited harvest/deliciously exclusive

Total CSS Weight= 6.5 lbs -7 lbs for $190

Facts about King Crab…
1. U. S. Blue King Crab are only harvested in and around the Pribilof Islands, AK.
2. Blue King Crab U.S. fishery is managed for sustainable harvest and only fished about once or twice per decade to protect the uncommonness of the species
3. Red king crab, which can weigh as much as 20 pounds apiece, is the largest crab and the largest resource accounting for more than 80% of the world king crab catch. Taste-wise, true red king crab is the best in the world. The meat is snow-white, with highlights of bright red.
4. Blue king crab, which can be distinguished from red king crab by the more pronounced dark coloring on the tip of their legs, are almost as sweet as true red king crab. Blue king crab are smaller than their close cousins, red king crab, and are richer and meatier than brown [golden] king crab. There are only three species of king crab – red, blue and brown.

Click Here to Enroll. Other 2011 Harvested King Crab Programs are available by species. Limited time offer.

Otolith's Oyster Stew


This recipe is a combination of two recipes that were shared with me by word of mouth. The first recipe was described to me last spring by the octogenarian mother of my girl friend Suze. Sue's mom's recipe emphasized the importance of fresh butter, minimal ingredients to allow the delicate flavor of the oysters to prevail and finally carefully cooking oysters in simmering milk bath as the last step and removing from the heat as soon as the oysters appear to feather at the edges to avoid over cooking them. Lari Robling of WHYY's radio program FIT once shared her favorite cod chowder recipe with me. Lari's cod chowder was the inspiration for the technique of layering minimal ingredients to extract the most flavor from each ingredient without complicating the recipe and risking over powering the light fresh flavor of the seafood. Oysters like fresh cod are subtle and delicate in their sweetness and savoriness. My thanks to Lari and Dorthy for sharing their time and knowledge with me.
Ingredients:10 medium oysters-raw
1/2 stick unsalted butter
1 large fresh yellow onion-diced
6 med/lg fresh yellow potatoes-peeled
Water
2 cups fresh raw* whole milk
2 Tbs white flour
1/2 Tbs sea salt
1/2 Tbs white pepper
Paprika and fresh dill sprigs to garnish

Mix:
Add butter and onion to a hot large 4 qt or larger stainless steel soup pot. Saute until onions are clear not browned. Add diced potato to onions. Potatoes should be cut in half then thickly sliced into scalloped rounds then in half again to create 1/4 inch thick quarter round scalloped potatoes. Add just enough water to barely cover potato such that some potato may be sort of exposed on top even when you press them flatly down into the onions. Boil covered and reduce heat to simmer once boiling. Simmer 5 minutes to soften potatoes and onions. Potatoes should be aldente and not fully soft when milk and flour is added. Combine the milk and flour using a wire whisk to avoid lumps. Add to the hot cooked pot when potatoes are aldente. Stir and bring to a gentle simmer uncovered; please don't boil any more during this recipe. You may want to hang out with the stew at this point to watch carefully as avoid another boil. Add pepper not salt. Shuck oysters and place in a bowl with their juices. When milk and other ingredients are showing signs of steaming and lightly beginning to froth without boiling, add sea salt then stir and add oysters with juice and stir again. Check oysters quickly for feathering. Usually takes about 2-3 minutes. Remove pot from heat and serve with a dash of paprika and some torn sprigs of fresh dill in each bowl.
I used 6 gigantic oysters for this recipe and chopped them a bit while in their bowl of juices. Last night Suze, my family and I enjoyed this sweet and creamy fall oyster stew.
The Gravelling Point, NJ oysters were an ideal and even-colored ivory shellfish to compliment the other fresh and local ingredients used.
*optional
Happy Thanksgiving!

Shucking Directions

Serving the perfect oyster on the half shell requires careful shucking. The oyster knife should be inserted through the hinge since this is the thickest part of the shell. Even experienced shuckers should wear gloves to protect their hands while handling oysters because of the sharp fluting typical of these shellfish.


1. Place the oyster cup-side down firmly cupped in the palm of your hand with the hinge pointed toward Your body. Insert the point of your shucking knife between the upper and lower shells at the hinge. Apply pressure while slowly rocking the knife point back and forth between the shells.

2. Once the hinge is broken, twist the knife to pry the shell open about one-half inch. Slide the knife along the upper (flat) shell to about midpoint until encountering the adductor muscle. Sever the muscle from the flat shell, freeing the flat shell. Be careful to contain the liquor (oyster juices) in the cupped shell. Discard the detached flat shell.


3. Slide the shucking knife along bottom of cupped shell until the adductor muscle is severed. Flip the oyster meat in the cupped shell for the best visual presentation.

CSS 2011 Fall Oysters are HERE!


Congratulations to Otolith's CSS Oyster shareholders for your courage to face these live, local and sustainable oysters head on! You have embarked on an amazing journey that not only includes access and consumption of the freshest tasting most wonderful oysters in the world and also includes a increased awareness of origin, handling and environment of your oysters and many of the other CSS species available through Otolith Sustainable Seafood that you have enjoyed as well.

Otolith's CSS 2011 Fall Oysters were harvested from Great Bay, NJ on 11/16/11 by John Maxwell, Maxwell Shellfish.

Live oysters should be kept under refrigeration until ready to eat or cook. If properly handled these oysters may be eaten raw until 11/23/11. Proper handling includes: 1) Maintain 34-40 degree temperature control using refrigeration or ice, 2) keep oysters alive by providing adequate ventilation - do not store in an air-tight container and throw away any dead oysters whose shells have popped open before cooking indicating that they are no longer alive, 3) keep live oysters moist by covering them with wet food safe paper - use the brown bag they came in to wet and cover while refrigerated and 4) store oysters carefully with the bowl side down and their flat side up so as to reduce their anxiety and maintain their health - keeping them nestled in their own juices will reduce stress and maintain healthy and safe oysters.

Otolith received our CSS Oysters from Maxwell Shellfish today, 11/18/11, and has carefully stored each oyster bowl side down, covered with wet paper, and stored under refrigeration to maintain their health and the safety of your fresh live local oysters. It is important that you protect your hand while shucking any oyster to prevent injury. Please read the Shucking Tip below before shucking your wonderful oysters. Otherwise, a fabulous alternative to shucking is to clean and bake at 400 degrees the live oysters and eat them hot and ready with a dash of lemon or choice tapenade. My favorite tapenade is chopped sauteed spinach and garlic tossed with freshly grated hard white cheese and a bit of lemon juice served on hot cooked oysters and eaten with a small fork. Caution oysters will be hot if cooked at 400degrees and they will only take about 10 minutes to cook and pop open.

Shucking Directions
Otolith will distribute CSS Oysters at Headhouse Farm Market on Sunday, 11/20/11.

Sustainable Fish for the Kosher Consumer

By Hannah Lee and Published in The Philadelphia Jewish Voice on Oct. 17, 2011
Murat Aritan and daughter, Isabella in Adak, Alaska

Earlier in the spring, my husband asked me to serve more fish. As I am a vegetarian, it would mean shopping for items I do not eat (or taste, so recipe adjustments happen at the dining table). However, I knew there was a fish purveyor at the Headhouse Square Farmers' Market and I started chatting with them. An interesting bit of news was that the male head of household, Murat Aritan, had left for Alaska and he'd brought his young daughter along on their summer journey. So, I asked to interview the couple when the family reunited again.
Earlier this month, I met the adults, Murat and his wife, Amanda Bossard, in their Fishtown office. Amanda wanted to talk about sustainable fishing, Murat wanted to talk about their CSS (Community-Supported Seafood) and I wanted to know if it could be kosher. It was a lively conversation.
Fishermen are the sentinels for our oceans, said Amanda. They're the first ones to know about the changing conditions of our oceans-- indicators of the health of our environment-- even before the scientists who may sample only sporadically and periodically. And Alaska can be the test model for sustainable fishing.
What is sustainable fishing? Comparable to organic produce, it means harvesting sea life via means that do no harm to the environment or collateral damage to other species. This means avoiding the most popular varieties served in restaurants, as over-fishing depletes the ability of the species to maintain its population. Knowing which species are sustainable is difficult, but the Monterey Bay Aquarium provides an updated list on its Seafood Watch, downloadable to your printer or as an app for your mobile phone.
How did the couple become involved in fishing? They were high school sweethearts, growing up in Fishtown, a Philadelphia neighborhood bordered by the Delaware River, Frankford Avenue, and York Street. Amanda left town first, winning a partial scholarship to study in Anchorage, Alaska. Murat went north independently and fell in love with the pristine clime of Alaska. He learned fishing and crabbing from the professionals. Amanda worked for the Alaskan Fish and Game Department until the birth of their second child, now 5. Their first child, a daughter now aged 7, was introduced to fishing on the family boat, the FV (for Fishing Vessel) Sunset, at the tender age of 1-1/2, when they made a 10-day ocean crossing to the Aleutian Islands in the Northern Pacific Ocean. Their second child, a son, made his water debut at age 2-1/2. This summer, Murat served as Chief Engineer, re-habbing a Fairbanks Morse (marine diesel) engine for a tugboat; he and his daughter slept on their own boat. Murat and Amanda no longer fish together, because with two children, it's no longer possible to monitor both of them on board while working.
They founded Otolith Sustainable Seafood in 2004 to: "encourage responsible harvest methods; reward harvesters who promote effective management of sustainable fisheries; provide transparent and unbiased evaluations of seafood resource management; and network the shared interests of responsible seafood consumers."
Otolith's CSS provides its patrons with the freshest product, without the middlemen. Substantially different from the CSA (Community-Supported Agriculture)programs now increasingly popular for organic produce, this CSS offers tremendous flexibility. The subscriber pays in advance, but can choose when and how much of which species to collect; each item is individually packed into small vacuum-sealed pouches about a pound in heft. The fisherman is guaranteed a market before he embarks on his expedition. The products are cleaned and processed at the dockside and immediately flash-frozen. Otolith brings the items in by barge and truck to Philadelphia, where the items are held in a cold-storage facility until claimed. The consumer is guaranteed a product, because the fisherman is paid only after he returns to dock, with the right species.
Otolith, a name that refers to the earbone of fish (which can be used to assess the age and health of fish), works directly with hook-and-line fishermen, not the ones who haul fish by trawling (pulling a huge net through the waters), a process that results in large amounts of "by-catch," untargeted species including dolphins, sea turtles, and sharks, and may also include sub-legal or immature members of the targeted species. The by-catch die in the process.
As part of their five-year plan, Murat hopes to return to fishing, but permit rights are expensive, ranging from $20,000 to $60,000. Quota rights are also costly, as quotas were set about by the Magnuson-Stevens Act of 1996 (popularly known as the "Sustainable Fisheries Act") and newcomers have to buy the quota rights from those who were in business then or were grandfathered into the system. And he would like to expand his markets into franchises, retail stores, and restaurants. The latter is an especially hard nut to crack, as chefs usually prefer to work with large wholesalers. There's also the prejudice against "flash-frozen" products, but the "fresh" fish offered in some of the restaurants are simply defrosted fish, tagged as fresh. They are looking for a business partner who shares their vision.
Fish are amazing creatures. Do you know that adult salmon can find its way home (up to 5,000 miles away) by its sense of smell, some two to five years after spawning in the breeding grounds? This skill means that salmon can detect minute concentrations of contaminants in the water. Also, fish are not equivalent or interchangeable. For instance, tilapia does not offer much nutritional value compared to King salmon (I compare it to anemic iceberg lettuce versus robust vitamin-rich kale). The oceans were also amazing in its ability to rebound from a multitude of assaults-- small catches by many fishermen-- but with the advent of trawl fishing done by a few, large operators, they have floundered in their recovery.
What about Paul Greenberg's 2010 book, Four Fish: The Future of the Last Wild Food in which the author touted the future of farm fishing? Amanda disputes his claim, saying "the ocean reigns supreme in its ability to efficiently and affordably produce the largest biomass of renewable and healthful fish." Farm fishing still relies on wild catch to feed its stock. "Instead of fixing the existing situation, get us back to where we were," she says, farm fishing is alluring because it offers the potential for a lot of short-term profit, but in the long-term, it will not be sustainable. Farm fishing has environmental costs that affect even people who do not eat fish, because it impacts on watersheds and the availability of protein for other species.
So, is sustainable fishing kosher? I asked my local kosher grocer and he said that the halachic (religious legal) rulings constantly change (because of changing conditions). Currently, he is allowed to bring in fresh salmon and tilapia, but only with the skin on. That means the fish are processed aboard ships that are dedicated for that species. So, I reported back to Murat and Amanda, their CSS fish are no different! Their canned salmon even has the OU kosher certification and all of it was responsibly harvested. They're now interested in finding delivery sites for kosher consumers.
Murat is a first-generation fisherman, so he has no cushion against the economic vicissitudes. He bought a boat, but the permits and quotas are extra investments. It is still possible for high school graduates to start work as deckhands and to retire with a comfortable living. "We can show young, ambitious men not bound for college that there is another way." Is the industry sexist? Not really, because women can work as captains and deckhands and they can serve in field-and-stream research and management roles. However, if one wishes to raise a family, it's not tenable to leave one's family for three months at a time. "We need to create a generation of fishermen who can maintain the front line of defense for our oceans," proclaims Amanda. The consumer can participate by making personal sacrifices, in choosing to not eat fish that are not sustainably harvested.

Oysters, Halibut, Prawns and Sablefish

OPEN CSS 2011 Fall Harvest programs include:

2011 Fall Oyster Program/ $24 for 2 doz.
2011 Fall Spot Prawns/ $150 for 10 lbs
2011 Fall Halibut/ $180 for 10 lbs
2011 Fall Sablefish/ $180 for 10 lbs

Your wild fish and shellfish when you want it, caught in season this Fall and delivered to you. All fisheries end November 15, 2011. Get your winter supply now to enjoy through spring. Otolith will coordinate and organize all CSS delivery and farm market p/u. All available locations are listed on the Enrollment Form.

Each CSS has 2-3 deliveries to your local market and arrives individually packed in average weight 1 lb peices in the quantity you request. Otolith sustainable seafood is always wild, blast/frozen, highest quality sushi-grade, additive and preservative free fish and shellfish sourced from artisanal domestic harvesters of a healthful renewable resource.

Click here for the Enrollment form.

Rouleaux de Poissons - Fish Rolls


This recipe' is best when using cold cooked sablefish! The sablefish higher omega-3 content allows it to withstand the additional cooking required to lightly fry the uncooked rolls of wonton. As far as I know, this is an original recipe and a family favorite among us sablefish lovers in my home.

Prep Time: 20 minutes
Cook Time: 20 minutes

Ingredients:
1 c. cooked cold sablefish flaked
2 c. cabbage [any variety] shredded or thinly sliced
1 c. shiitake sliced and cooked [any type mushroom is fine]
1/2 pack of wanton wraps - uncooked
bowl of water for sealing wrappers
1/4 c. bell pepper sliced thinly*
1/4 c. bamboo thinly sliced*
* optional, reduce cabbage by same volume
1/2 cup of grape seed oil or frying oil

Sauce*: mix, heat and serve on the side
1 tsp. ginger freshly grated
2 Tbs. soy sauce
1 Tbs. rice wine vinegar
1 tsp of garlic freshly grated
4 Tbs. of orange or other fruit juice or puree.
* optional


Mix:
Combine all ingredients except the wonton wraps, oil and water in a large bowl. Mix well. Using one wonton at a time, place a tablespoon of the mixture into the center of each wonton if using 4 inch squares and two tablespoons in the center if using 6 inch squares. Using your finger, wet the edge of the wonton all the way around the square with the water. Begin at one corner and fold over the mixture, then fold over each adjacent corner to create and envelope. Finally, roll the stuffed wonton over sealing the final corner and voila'. Set each Rouleaux de Poissons aside and continue rolling until you have at least four per person or until all of the mixture has been used. Unused mixture can be sauteed and served with rice - cooked about three minutes. Unused wontons can be frozen for use at another time or stored under refrigeration for at least 10 days in a sealed bag.

Heat oil until hot [at the smoke point its ready] in a deep saute pan or deep pot. Frying pans require more oil and create more splatter. I use a 2 qt saucepan to allow the oil to rise just about half way up the side of each lateral fish roll. A splatter screen is helpful for this stage of the recipe but not necessary if you have a deeper pan or pot. Fry each fish roll until golden and flipping at least once. Remember that most of your ingredients are already cooked or delicious raw. It is not necessary to have super even doneness. Golden is terrific. If rolls starts to burn flip at least once then remove from the hot oil regardless and add new uncooked fish rolls to lower the oil temperature before attempting to decrease the heat source. Frying in low temperature oil makes for oily food.

Serving Suggestion:
The Rouleaux de Poissons go great with any rice. Incidentally, the rice may cook while you are rolling your wontons. I add a salad to almost every meal I serve. This recipe inspired me to create a salad using some of the remaining sliced cabbage and carrot combined with fresh lettuce of any sort, canned sliced water-chestnuts and dressing of oil, rice wine vinegar, soy sauce, pickled ginger and fresh plum segments or canned Mandarin orange [if your partner can handle fruit in their salad otherwise on the side or omit]. This salad is simple and is a quick variation on the same ingredients so there is very little prep time and anyone can combine the salad while you complete frying the Rouleaux de Poissons. Cilantro and seasame seeds make a nice garnice and fresh radishes can be substituted for water-chestnuts.

Simple Summer Cod, yummm...

Prep Time: 10 minutes

Cook Time: 20 minutes [rest fillet for 5 minutes before serving]

Ingredients:

5 small squash for every pound of cod you plan to cook
sliced
1 pound of cod for every pound and a half of squash you cook
1 clove of garlic, smashed or finely diced
1 giant ripe tomato - over ripe is good here too, chopped
2 tsp of olive oil - not EVOO
white ground pepper and sea salt to taste
1 large piece of foil or a covered oven safe dish
1 lemon in wedges

Preheat your grill or oven to 400 degrees.

I do not thaw my cod for this recipe as it will thaw during the cooking. Place frozen cod fillet on sheet of foil, top cod with squash slices, add tomato, then garlic, and finish with olive oil over everything. Wrap foil securely around fish and vegetables like a pouch gathering at the top and rolling over the edges into one another until it is tight and won't fall apart when lifted with tongs or a metal spatula.

Place covered pot or pouched foil on the grill over the heat for 4 minutes and close the grill. After 4 minutes move the pot or pouch to be placed indirectly with the flames and heat source. If you are cooking in the oven, it is not necessary to relocate the pouch or pot. Close the grill and cook undisturbed for 16 minutes. Remove the pouch or pot from the heat and allow everything to rest unopened for 5 minutes while you set out some pita or baguette. Open the pouch or pot and remove the vegetables to a separate dish to serve. Serve the fish directly from the pot or foil with a plate to catch drippings once opened. Salt and pepper squash and fish to taste. Garnish and serve cod with lemon.

Serving Suggestion: This recipe serves three adults or two adults and two children. I recommend serving this meal with fresh made hummus, preservative free store bought hummus if its fresh, or EVOO with hot pepper flakes and sea salt. The pita or baguette with go well with the hummus or seasoned oil and you won't need any butter. You may also consider serving the pita toasted on the grill during the last 4 minutes.

Entertaining: This meal is excellent for inviting over friends. Double the recipe and invite four friends. Ask each friend to bring a dessert or a bottle of wine. Voila! For less than 30 minutes of work and less than $30 dollars of cost you can have a lovely summer evening with your friends. If you are alfresco, don't forget the bug dope and incense to repel flies and other pests. Your guests will appreciate your thoughtfulness.